Arran – ‘Scotland in miniature’ drives me bananas. Arran is Arran and beautiful and interesting and that’s that.
Oh thou! in Hellas deemed of Heavenly birth,
Muse! form’d or fabled at the minstrel’s will!
Since shamed full oft by later lyres on earth,
Mine dares not call thee from thy sacred hill:
Yet there I’ve wandered by thy vaunted rill;
Yes! sigh’d o’er Delphi’s long deserted shrine,
Where, save that feeble fountain, all is still;
Nor mote my shell awake the weary Nine
To grace so plain a tale – this lowly lay of mine.
Lord Byron – Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage.
Two weeks in Crete. One week in and around Athens. Time to relax and reflect. Forget about schools and forget about Brexit. Weather was sublime. Perfect temperature in the low to mid 20’s, mostly sunny with two half days of cloud or light rain.
So what was originally meant to be a point-to-point cycle holiday through some Greek islands with just touring bikes and luggage turned into a lot of driving in hire cars with a road bike in the back.
Managed about seven cycle runs, the most unforgettable was into the heart of the Cretan mountains. I now realise however why there are such limited options to hire a road bike on the island. Other than a few low lying coastal strips in the most densely populated parts (Chania for instance) every trip entailed some serious climbing. Road surfaces were mixed – like home – but you could never quite trust the absence of a deep pothole or rutted section. This was compensated by quiet roads meaning little traffic hassle from behind on fast descents.
My thoughts go out to keen cyclists in and around Athens. Dedication required. A combination of narrow, rutted and busy roads, impatient drivers and worst of all – aggressive dogs all over the place. It was not pleasant being surrounded by four snarling beasts and having to use your bike as a shield. On the mainland dogs are well out of control.
Cretan people were friendly enough, without being overbearing. Relatively calm and laid back compared with home. Some were a bit dismissive but this inevitably the result of the island being dominated by overseas tourists and being the end of a long season. As our previous trip to Kefalonia – some quarter of a century back (yikes!) – it’s the women who are undoubtedly the driving force in Greece.
Arrival at the airport in Heraklion we were met with ‘Momma car hire’ which amounted to a couple of young boys hiring out what looked like their cousin’s bashed up Astra with 80,000 miles on the clock. Thankfully the bike box fitted in the back of the hatchback (just). We got used to its odours and its idiosyncrasies. And at least our vehicle did not shout out ‘hire car’ on the roads of Crete. Just like one of the locals eh …..
First night was an upgrade to a room with a jacuzzi at a very pleasant hotel in Rethimno. Very welcome after lugging a bike box through the narrow streets of the conservation area. Rethimno was neat, very touristy (including us) and on a very warm and balmy evening we were immediately swayed by the meze and the accompaniments: spanakopita (spinach pie); tzatziki; souvlaki bread; garlic and other dips; washed down with the ‘free’ Raki and fresh, crisp grapes to finish. Don’t worry: not going to rehearse all our meals throughout the blog!
Next morning the bike was assembled: we headed around the west coast to the rugged south west and Elafonissi Beach (mildly impressive). The mountain and coastal scenery was much more impressive …. but far too much driving on the winding mountain roads in the heat of the day took its toll. Tiredness and short tempers set in, we ended up bailing out in the isthmus town of Paleochora. Highlight of evening – the day even – was watching the taverna dog chasing the taverna cat around the tables.
West to east travel along the south coast of Crete was simply not possible with any directness. This was not a great start, lack of pre holiday research to blame …….. so we decided to head back to the north coast and the city of Chania for a few days.
We stayed with Vera Airbnb – a room in a mansion house, Vera’s late father was a senior officer in the Greek navy and his presence adorned the hallway alongside some beautiful antiques. The cool and airy mansion was an oasis of calm in the city and we would stay there for three nights.
Chania was the base for the most memorable cycle to one of the highest points to be reached on tarmac. 6.15am start from Chania in the dark for the most exhilarating climb on the bike up to the start of the Samarai gorge https://www.strava.com/activities/1237339196
Chania also has the famous Venetian lighthouse and is a short drive to Stavros: a day at the beach where Zorba the Greek was filmed. Peak heat was reached at 24 degrees. Sunburn to prove it.
Change of scene it was time to move out of the city. Decided to drive almost the length of the island to a booked AirBnB in the south east. Pefki was sold as a traditional Greek village over 1500 feet up into the hills overlooking the Libyan sea.
Pefki delivered tranquility the number one priority. Stayed four nights in a traditional village house which has been tastefully restored. (Shame they could not leave toilet roll or washing up liquid mind you). A friendly black snake lived in the wall opposite.
Completed a couple of challenging cycles along the south coast of Crete both ending with a slog up the mountain in the heat of the day to ‘home’ in Pefki.
The Pefki Gorge down to the sea was impressive and a testing walk up to the small chapel on the rocky outcrop above the village: Stavromenos.
Really lovely beaches a 20 minute drive down the mountain in Makry Galios with the beach and sea front very much winding down for the season. Just as we like it. A most relaxing four days in the south east of Crete. We ate well.
Time to move on we headed back north over the mountains to Agios Nikolaous but firstly visited the laid back hippiesh resort of Myrtos along the south coast.
Agios a very agreeable town, obviously a bit of money around here, we found a huge sea front apartment for our last nights on Crete.
Contemplated boat trip to Spinalonga (which had never heard of before) but decided to view it from above instead.
Managed another cycle into the hills – wonderful sunrise leaving Agios Nikolaous, visited a chapel carved into the hillside and found a village away from the tourists to sit and watch the locals (men) …. eh … sit around. https://www.strava.com/activities/1247673451
So it was back to Heraklion and farewell to Crete: the overnight ferry with bike (and bike box) which would take us to the port of Athens at Piraeus.
Over to mainland Greece
Based ourselves to the east of the city in Artemida – a lovely Airbnb apartment convenient for the airport. Artemida itself forgettable.
Managed to get a Saturday morning cycle run in along the coast to the town and small fishing port of Nea Makri. Tried to get off the main road on the return – narrow and rutted up into the coastal hills to the east of Athens. Ended up getting surrounded by aggressive dogs, and running the gauntlet of many others frothing at the mouth. Disgrace. https://www.strava.com/activities/1250163520
Hired another car from the airport – Hertz job, this one did scream out ‘hire car’. Spent a few days on Greece’s second largest island (behind Crete) – Evia. Linked by a bridge at Chalcis, Evia is not one of the most romanticised of islands. The journey to the north was however spectacular in parts, ‘neck-juddering’ in others with the state of the road. We came across an unassuming little town with a tame grasshopper next to the church.
Evia has a lush and mountainous northern part we headed to the spa resort of Edipsou.
Stayed in a spa hotel in Edipsou, experienced a Hammam (ancient Greek steam bath with ethereal music) and made use of the spa waters spewing on to the rather scraggy beach in the town. Very much end of season feel in Edipsou many hotels and restaurants having closed down … but like it that way.
…… this is what they were after:
The most wonderful sunsets of the entire trip were on Evia:
Morning ferry out of Edipsou back to the mainland at Arkitsa and a couple of days on the slopes of Mount Parnassus a sacred mountain in central Greece, near Delphi. The name “Parnassus” in literature tends to refer to its distinction as the home of poetry, literature and, by extension, learning. Arachova where we stayed was a touch less classical and very much an aspiring ski resort with its designer shops. Sitting at over 3,000 feet the sun worshipping clothes were packed away.
Stayed in a wonderful guest house – most comfortable bed yet – with very kind hosts. Just a few miles and many hundred feet above the village of Delphi. Before we get to the classics, a ‘dog of the day’ shot in Delphi:
The site of Delphi was fascinating: myths dating to the classical period of ancient Greece (510-323 BC), Zeus determined the site of Delphi when he sought to find the centre of his “Grandmother Earth” or Gaia. He sent two eagles flying from the eastern and western extremities, and the path of the eagles crossed over Delphi where the omphalos or navel of Gaia was found.
The forum and the athletics stadium still intact giving a sense of the gladiatorial and the sense of theatre
Earlier myths include traditions that the Delphic oracle Pythia, already was the site of an important oracle in the pre-classical Greek world (as early as 1400 BC) and, rededicated from about 800 BC, when it served as the major site during classical times for the worship of the god Apollo. Apollo was said to have slain a serpent or a dragon who lived there and protected the navel of the earth. Anyway, the settlement with its ancient athletics stadium; its forum and wash houses overlooking the Pleistos valley was a special place.
The Charioteer of Delphi, also known as Heniokhos is one of the best-known statues surviving from ancient Greece, and is considered one of the finest examples of ancient bronze sculptures. The life-size (1.8m) statue of a chariot driver was found in 1896 at the site.
Next day it was up into the mist to the ski centre (above 5,000 feet) and a walk above the clouds to nearly 8,000 feet and two of the summit peaks of Mount Parnassus itself. Met an interesting couple from Columbia in the medical profession, good to get some company. Perhaps the most astonishing experience of the day was a mountain dog attacking the wheels of the car … I was doing about 50 miles an hour. Crazy. No wonder there are not many cyclists around!!
It was back down to sea level (using the fast Greek toll roads) by passing Athens and a lovely drive down Attica’s west ‘riviera’ coast. Stopped in Palaia Fokaia to shed the layers and enjoy some bread, cheese and coffee al fresco. Temperature back above 20 degrees. Our destination was Cape Sounion at the tip of the Attica peninsula.
Cape Sounion contains the site of ruins of the ancient Greek temple of Poseidon, the god of the sea in classical mythology. The remains are perched on the headland, surrounded on three sides by the sea. The ruins bear the engraved name of English Romantic poet Lord Byron. The sunset though is altogether more impressive (than engravings) and we stuck it out to be last off site getting some great shots.
Athens was left until last. Decided to do by bike tour. Highly recommended at 32 euro each. Good bikes, knowledgable guide with good depth. Avoided main roads too. It was an informative and slick way to see the sights in a morning. http://www.athensbybike.gr
The city was a bit too much after being out and about in the countryside or smaller towns for 3 weeks. Lot of walking around – sprinted up to the Parthenon, last entry (I was the very last of the day) to catch the sunset. The Akropolis was clad with scaffolding: but still very busy, goodness knows what the crowds are like peak of the day and peak of the season. Most of the afternoon in a Street Food café eating Gyros (flatbread) with various fillings!
Last day was a cycle in the damp and rain to Marathon Lake, largely taking the route of the ‘original’ marathon where the fabled run of the Greek soldier Pheidippides, a messenger from the Battle of Marathon to Athens, who reported the victory after running the 26 miles and 385 yards into the city. https://www.strava.com/activities/1260603649
Stayed away from the dogs this time hugging the coastal road taking my chances with the traffic. Back to Artemida safely. Bike packed away wet and muddy for the plane back to Edinburgh.
Finished off a week of climate chaos in South Asia – thousands dead, millions of the very poorest people on earth displaced – with a glorious mountain bike cycle in the Scottish Highlands.
Did I feel guilty? Not really. Do I feel angry? Yes. Media obsessed with flooding in Texas – also tragic for those involved – but little mention of the root cause of these extreme weather events like hurricane Harvey. We simply will not talk about it. The argument that we should be dealing with the here and now consequences of another disaster are becoming tired. Surely now is the time to be talking about the causes. These extreme weather events are going to intensify ….. and those that least able to cope, like in India and Bangladesh, will suffer and die.
Why are people who say that climate change is too uncertain to believe more easily convinced of the imminent danger of terrorist attacks, asteroid strikes or an alien invasion. George Marshall in his wonder full book ‘why our brains are wired to ignore climate change’ asks and tries to answer these very questions. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dont-Even-Think-About-Climate/dp/163286102X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504379914&sr=8-1&keywords=george+marshall+why
He does not point fingers or lecture on his views – simply asks why this generation continue to bury our collective heads in the sand against the evidence and the facts, especially those with children and grandchildren.
So to the cheery topic of today’s cycle. The Burma Road between near Aviemore and Carrbridge over the hills and alongside the river Dulnain.
Could not get parked up in Aviemore so resorted to parking at the foot of the hard climb up the Burma Road at Lynwilg just off the A9. Burma Road may be named so because of the suffering on its slopes (must look it up). Anyway: after unloading the bike I stopped after 50 metres to put £1 in an honesty box for the best bit of Malteser Cake I can recall.
Could not delay the slog up to the col. Had to push twice, once because I was not warmed up and my back was feeling it. The other occasion because I was shattered and the rear wheel was skidding around on the gravel. Otherwise I stayed on the bike and secured the cairn at the col in just over 30 minutes ….. that was the really hard work of the day done.
A sweeping descent followed. Glorious day – piercing blue sky. Then picked up the path alongside the river Dulnain.
Bit of technical riding – I could manage fine so must have been mild – and then wind assisted blast towards Carrbridge hurtling along by the river. I was not prepared for what greeted me in Carrbridge – the world saw cutting championships. Absolutely jumping with people, shops and cafes packed full. Lots of middle age stout blokes with beards, leathers and baseball caps and lots of middle age stout women with same (minus the beards). A lovely lady directing the traffic through the village gave me directions to pick up a forest track to Boat of Garten.
Coffee in Boat of Garten and great track through forest to Aviemore. Efforts have been made to resussitate this Highland town … but I’m sorry: Aviemore is still a ghastly place. A golf course with private stay out signs and soulless housing from a corporate leisure giant does not make a place.
So onward through Aviemore, across the A9 and gentle rise back to my start point at the foot of the Burma Road. Before heading off I paid another visit to the tray bakes and the honesty box for more Malteser cake.
The mountain bike has had a few outings since I cracked my ribs back in June. Three contrasting routes this week already
Crinan Canal and Knapdale, Argyll, West Coast https://www.strava.com/activities/1123629010
Had not appreciated the beauty of the Crinan Canal before.
The canal which opened in 1801 connects the village of Ardrishaig on Loch Gilp with the Sound of Jura, providing a navigable route between the Clyde and the Inner Hebrides, without the need for a long diversion around the Kintyre peninsula, and in particular the exposed Mull of Kintyre. It is nine miles in length with wide path and gentle gradients all the way – a Leisure cyclist’s dream away from the traffic.
We were based in Ardrishaig and had ridden to and from Crinan the previous evening – glorious weather to celebrate Liz’s 60th birthday. Managed a puncture though on the canal path, went through two inner tubes and the midges attacked with great gusto enjoying a mild, still evening in the west of Scotland. We made closing time for food by 30 seconds. It had been a few hours since we had had a birthday lunch in style at 1 Devonshire Gardens in Glasgow.
In all honesty the canal a wee bit boring on successive days so next day we started on the canal but headed off over the hill to Tayvallich and then on down Loch Sween to Keill Point on the Sound of Jura. What a breathtaking spot on a warm, sunny and calm summer afternoon.
On return took a brief excursion to the island of ‘Danna’, now with a causeway and beyond 30 metres …. inaccessible to anything but foot!
Caerlaverock and the Nith Estuary https://www.strava.com/activities/1125343901
A short afternoon ride after driving south from Argyll to and from my home town of Dumfries. The Wetland Trust Reserve and the Caerlaverock National Nature Reserve were tranquil and devoid of birds. Best season is winter particularly for the Barnacle Geese swarming in for the mild winter from northern climes!
Quick visit to Caerlaverock Castle – a triangular castle surrounded by a moat first built in the 13th century to control trade in and around the Solway. It has undergone many attacks and rebuilds since then. Now a popular spot for families and functions.
Surprisingly tired on return journey back into Dumfries. Glencaple was where the bird action was – ducks, tern and others I could not identify.
Glencaple lies near the mouth of the Nith estuary and was the former port to the town of Dumfries. A rather sleepy settlement these days a spanking new tearoom and visitor centre was opened by Princess Alexandra. On the cycle it was closed due to fire. Previously having recovered from flood. An eventful early life.
7 Stanes Dalbeattie – Red Run 7 Stanes Kirroughtree – Blue Run
Change of pace and style – the hardtail mountain bike doing what it was designed for. In all honesty while I completed the route of the Red trail – my technical inadequacies were sorely exposed on many sections. I spent a fair bit with feet on ground and at one stage with my whole body on the ground with the bike on top of me (albeit comical at low speed). As for the infamous granite slabs at Dalbeattie – I well and truly bottled them. Much practice needed.
Beautifully engineered forest trails though at Dalbeattie – came across one person in over two hours. Similarly Kirroughtree quiet even on sunny holiday August day.
Around the Whithorn Peninsula
Last day of the holiday – glorious sunny Sunday. Easy cycling including a coastal stretch not designed for anything but a mountain bike beyond Garlieston. Liz not a happy pup. Refreshments at Isle of Whithorn and glorious stretch of coastline coming into Port William. Relaxing end to a relaxing week.
Beautiful ride out to East Lothian today in the morning sunshine. In this sort of weather where else would you want to be …. Route here
Thanks to my cycle partner, found an excellent new cafe Gosford Bothy Farm Shop! A good cycle should always have a coffee stop. Home by midday and out for Liz retirement lunch in the old town. Very enjoyable. Walked home. Watched the tennis and fell asleep. That was it ….
The rib injury not great and coupled with a virus and busy at work – cycling took a back seat in June. Infact exercise took a back seat.
Apart from a couple long walks – including a 15 mile section of the Berwickshire coast from Cove to St Abbs – the heart rate never tested.
This time last year I was on the cusp of the Pyrenean Raid. This July started off with a mild West Lothian Run just over 30 miles on the road bike with my new saddle. Not great, like a very early season ride. Lots work to do.
Will leave you with some saxifrage flowers from Salisbury Crags.
Some great riding in and around Inverness – Daviot Forest yesterday and today the Learnie Red Rock trails on the Black Isle.
Also a great afternoon of sunshine for the Balloch Gala, until the heaven’s opened just in time for the outdoor Ceilidh. Managed a wee bit gardening too which always nourishes the soul.
Getting used to the bike – discovered today the maximum PSI is 55 for the tyres. I must have had up about 80 – no wonder I was having a rough ride.
Ribs still tender so avoiding any tricky stuff for now.
So glad to be lying on a bench in the sun overlooking the Moray Firth this morning – the world, its events and the reactions to them just seem so brutal at the moment. Good to take a break from the media onslaught when you can.